Black Diamonds, Bat Silhouettes, and Back Walkovers: Sedona at Sunset

We stayed in the heart of Sedona, nestled right in the valley beneath towering red rocks that seemed to glow at every hour of the day. The crystal shops were everywhere, but we came for the land itself—the trails, the views, and the kind of beauty that doesn’t need a souvenir.

One morning, with full CamelBaks, sun hats, and a spaniel ready to lead the charge, we set out on a hike that was labeled—somewhat ominously—as a black diamond. Part of it was even double black. We were a little hesitant...until we saw mountain bikers. I couldn’t imagine going down a natural rock staircase headfirst on a bike.

Still, we pressed on—300 feet of elevation change, full sun in the mid-80s, and two kids on shoulders (Carolina on mine, James on Amy’s) for the steepest climbs. Poky was thrilled, bounding up the hills and towing the bigger kids behind him like a fluffy ski lift. Lorelei was on Poky-duty most of the time and nearly everyone got a turn walking him—except James. He’s still on the “not allowed to lead a dog down a steep hill” list.

We drank nearly all of our 10 liters of water. Shade was rare, and the cacti and ocotillo were very present. Poky got a spa break mid-hike when we found the cool side of a red boulder and soaked his head, ears and neck to help him cool off. He was so hot he didn’t even resist.

Somewhere along the way, we got turned around—classic. Luckily, hiking in the heart of Sedona still has 5G, so we pulled up the map and navigated back to the loop, adding a casual half mile and another 100 feet of elevation. Bonus points for the Apple Watch Exercise Ring.

After lunch and a rest, the kids rallied. They ran barefoot in the yard while the red rocks turned amber in the evening light. We made it out in time to catch the sunset on Cathedral Rock—fiery skies, long shadows and photographic jumps in the air.

And just when we thought the day was done, Lorelei, Adeline and Jack started doing back walkovers in the twilight. The sky was deep purple, the rocks silhouetted behind them, and the bats flickered overhead.

Sedona, you beautiful beast—you wore us out, but not completely. Apparently, there’s still room for gymnastics at golden hour.