Cliff Dwellings, Fruit Snacks, and the Island in the Canyon

Walnut Canyon National Monument is a fascinating blend of natural beauty and history layered over millennia.

Just east of Flagstaff, this rugged stone wonder curves around a free-standing island in the middle of a steep canyon, home to dozens of cliff dwellings carved and built into the limestone walls. The Island Trail loops around this stone island, hugging ledges, ducking beneath overhangs, and offering glimpses into the lives of the Sinagua people who lived here over 750 years ago.

To reach the dwellings, we descended over 300 steps down the canyon wall. Thankfully, the stairs have railings. The rest of the Island Trail? Not so much. The path circles the rim of the island, with sheer drops and very few safety features. None of the children seemed to care.

Adeline, Carolina, and James sprinted ahead, bounding down the steps like it was a game, living on a steady stream of adrenaline and Welch’s fruit snacks. Dad trailed close behind—mostly to keep James from accidentally flinging himself off the edge. Even with the occasional railing on the stairs, the gaps below could easily swallow up an eager two-year-old. The flat loop around the island was wide enough, but open and exposed, which meant constant reminders of “walk beside the wall, not the cliff!”

The dwellings themselves were incredible to explore—small stone rooms tucked into the canyon, some still mostly intact. We walk through many of them, peering out from the same shaded spaces where Sinagua families once watched the canyon’s changing light. Sadly, looting in the 1800s and early 1900s stripped the site of its artifacts, and some of the structures were destroyed in the process. For years, visitors were encouraged to take souvenirs as a way to “experience” the site. It wasn’t until 1915 that President Woodrow Wilson declared it a National Monument and brought an end to the canyon’s open-door policy.

Despite that history, it remains a powerful place to explore. The loop was manageable (especially with fruit snacks) and the kids were proud to complete their Junior Ranger booklets by the time we returned to the top.

We made it back to the Airbnb for a late lunch—tired, dusty, and slightly sunburned. Poky, who had been left behind yet again to comply with the trail’s dog policy, greeted us with his usual full-body tail wag. Since he wasn’t allowed on the Island Trail, we took him for a long walk in the nearby Coconino National Forest.

And in case you're wondering—yes, there really are walnuts in Walnut Canyon. A particular sub-species that are smaller than the black walnuts we're used to. Like everything else in the high desert, they’re a little tougher, a little more rugged, and full of surprises.