Turn East: A Detour to Canyon de Chelly

We hadn’t planned to stop at Canyon de Chelly.

We were heading north—eyes on the road, burning down our snacks, and trying to make up time—when we felt a nudge from a previous conversation with a ranger at the Grand Canyon:

“If you can make it to Canyon de Chelly, go. It’s special.”

So we turned east. And he was right.

Canyon de Chelly (pronounced “de SHAY”) isn’t like any other park or monument we’ve visited. It sits entirely within the Navajo Nation. It’s both a national monument and a homeland. A place where modern Navajo families live their lives among ancient cliff dwellings, caring for the land as both heritage and home.

The experience felt different from the start. When we pulled into the visitor center, we noticed something we hadn’t experienced elsewhere on this journey—we were the minority. Most visitors were Native American, with a few guests of European descent like us sprinkled in. It was a quiet and grounding reminder: we were visitors in Navajo Nation.

A Navajo ranger welcomed the kids to their Junior Ranger ceremony and took time to share about the homes, customs, and everyday life of the people here. We learned that a traditional Navajo hogan—built from mud and wood—always faces east, to greet the rising sun each morning. A gesture of renewal, respect, and rhythm.

We didn’t make it for sunrise, but as we drove along the canyon rim heading east, it felt right. The light stretched long across the steep canyon walls, revealing layer after layer of ancient history and sheer beauty.

There are actually two main canyons here—Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del Muerto. We made a few stops along the rim, with empty parking lots and stunning views. In one spot, we stood above ancient cliff dwellings carved into the walls of Canyon del Muerto…and just below them, we saw something we didn’t expect: a modern house, nestled in the canyon floor. A family lives there—right below centuries-old ruins. It wasn’t a museum. It is a home.

That’s what makes this place different.

Because Canyon de Chelly is within the Navajo Nation, visitors can’t hike into the canyon without a Navajo guide. This isn’t open land to be wandered freely. And while a guided hike would’ve been amazing, our spontaneous stop didn’t allow for it this time.

But we were so glad we came.

The sun was radiant, the canyon was deep, and the silence and calm lingered long after we left.

So if you ever find yourself heading north out of Arizona, and you see a road that veers east…take it.

You might just find something unique and unforgettable on that detour.